White Balance is an aspect
of photography that many digital camera owners don’t understand or use but it’s
something well worth learning about as it can have a real impact upon the shots
you take.
I say it as fourth element because the first 3
are Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO. These 3 are already being discussed in my earlier blog.
White Balance is considered as
one of the most important settings of a digital camera. White Balance doesnt
really affect you exposure, just the appearance of colour in the image.
Different light sources cast
their own colours which cannot usually be noticed with the naked eye. White Balance is essentially the camera compensating
for the colour cast of the light in order to reproduce the correct colour. In
short the reason we adjust white balance is to get the colours
in your images as accurate as possible.
You might have noticed when examining shots
after taking them that at times images can come out with an orange, blue,
yellow etc look to them despite the fact that to the naked eye the scene looked
quite normal. The reason for this is that images different sources of light
have a different ‘colour’ (or temperature) to them. A digital camera can measure the colour in the red, green, and blue
light of the spectrum, as reflected to its sensors. In a photo taken under the
midday sun there is the whole spectrum of light (which makes up “white”
sunlight). Under these conditions, the colours in an image appear nearest to
the “true” colours. An image taken under tungsten bulb (a normal household
incandescent bulb) without adjusting the digital camera for white balance
produces the dull orange shade as it spreads the biased light. Similarly, an
image taken under the fluorescent lighting produces a brighter bluish cast.
We don’t generally notice this difference in
temperature because our eyes adjust automatically for it. So unless the
temperature of the light is very extreme a white sheet of paper will generally
look white to us. However a digital camera doesn’t have the smarts to make these
adjustments automatically and sometimes will need us to tell it how to treat
different light. So for cooler (blue or green) light you’ll tell the camera to
warm things up and in warm light you’ll tell it to cool down.
To
understand the concept of White Balance, you need to first understand the
concept of colour temperature. Colour temperature is a characteristic of
visible light. It provides a method of describing these characteristics and is
measured in Kelvin (K). A light having higher colour temperature will have more
blue light or larger Kelvin value as compared to lower light, which has a
smaller Kelvin value. The following table shows the colour temperature of
various sources of light.
Colour
Temperature
|
Light Source
|
1000-2000 K
|
Candlelight
|
2500-3500 K
|
Tungsten
Bulb (household variety)
|
3000-4000 K
|
Sunrise/Sunset
(clear sky)
|
4000-5000 K
|
Fluorescent
Lamps
|
5000-5500 K
|
Electronic
Flash
|
5500-6500 K
|
Daylight
with Clear Sky (sun overhead)
|
6500-8000 K
|
Moderately
Overcast Sky
|
8000-10000 K
|
Shade or
Heavily Overcast Sky
|
Here are some of the basic White Balance settings
you’ll find on cameras:
Auto – this is where the camera makes a best guess
on a shot by shot basis. The Auto setting helps in
adjusting the white balance automatically according to the different lighting
conditions. You’ll find it works in many situations but it’s worth venturing out of
it for trickier lighting.
Tungsten – This
mode is used for light under a little bulb like tungsten, and it is often used
while shooting indoors. The tungsten setting of the digital camera cools down
the color temperature in photos.
Fluorescent – This
mode is used for getting brighter and warmer shots while compensating for cool
shade of fluorescent light.
Daylight/Sunny – This mode is for the normal day light setting, while
shooting outdoors.
Cloudy – This
mode is ideal for while shooting on a cloudy day. this
setting generally warms things up a touch more than ‘daylight’ mode. and allows you to capture better shots.
Flash – the
flash of a camera can be quite a cool light so in Flash WB mode you’ll find it
warms up your shots. The flash mode is
required when there is inadequate lighting available. This mode helps pick the
right White Balance under low light conditions.
Shade – the
light in shade is generally cooler (bluer) than shooting in direct sunlight so
this mode will warm things up a little.
Manual White Balance.
In most cases you can get a pretty accurate result
using the above preset white balance modes – but some digital cameras (most
DSLRs and higher end point and shoots) allow for manual white balance
adjustments also.
The way this is used varies a little between models
but in essence what you do is to tell your camera what white looks like in a
shot so that it has something as a reference point for deciding how other colours
should look. You can do this by buying yourself a grey card which is
specifically designed for this task – or you can find some other appropriately
coloured object around you to do the job.
To manually set the white
balance in your image, first set your WB to custom then
point your camera at the grey card and make sure all the lights you’re
using fall on it, and hit the shutter button for your test shot. (frame should
cover most of the card) The camera sees the difference between the result and
the neutral hue and determines the balance from that.
Shooting Raw.
The alternative is to shoot raw files rather than
JPEGs. With JPEGs, the camera will discard ‘unwanted’ colour data according to
your White Balance setting. You can’t get it back, even if you realise you’ve
made a mistake.
Raw files, however, retain all the colour data
captured by the sensor. The camera will embed your White Balance setting in the
file as a default, but it’s purely advisory, you can choose a different setting
on your computer later.
It’s still useful
to set the White Balance on the camera. It will save time later if your RAW
files have the best White Balance setting applied, and by choosing a consistent
White Balance during your shoot, you ensure that the colour rendition will be
consistent across all your shots.
Original
Photograph
After
Correcting WB
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